,LIBRi\RY OF CONGRESS.! 

i , # 

#4l«'g- ■•■■■-: lopnns'"* t.° I 

JUMTED STATES OF AMf>cICA. | 



THE 



CUTTERS' CENTEIUL GDIDE; 



IN THE 



BY 



^XJ&USTUS KOCH. 



SELF-EEHeLATING SYSTEM for all tie TARIOOS FOBIS Of tlie HOIAN BOD!. 



<? 






ILLUSTRATED BY 



Fourteen Plates of Finely Engraved Diagrams. 



WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS HOW TO DRAFT THE VARIOUS STYLES OF COATS, 

VESTS AND PANTS. 



POUGUKEEPSIE, N. Y.. 
.187 6. 



kyifi3^'. 



^i> 



i^y^ ' UXt/^^L -L tvv 



J 




























J 


L 




^ 


^^ 














































■ 1 m 




c? 


^ 


^ ^4 1 


:5 ic- N 


^ s 


L^ 


F 


^J^ 


■r 


]S~ §i 


££ 


S 


6 


5 


^5 


L 


s 


? 


Lt 


g_j? 


s; : 


li 




» po 


S! 


!? S 


i'JW^ 






-. k 


5 - 


h 


1 
s s 


? £ 


r? 


s b- * 


^ 
^ 


3> 


L. -i <-i 
rfi ■*■ ^ 


^ 


i*J 


£ ^ 




!a 




^ 


5? ^^^\ A^M^F^S y^ \mi'>F-^S/ 


^^x. 









jaOH Ol^-^S Ht'l'P «"r ^ A......,...tr.l 




\ 




^^ Shoulder Measure Scale No. I 


v^u^u^iuy r^i'cn 


/ Slw.MmScNoH 


\ / s.M.s.No.m:\ 


=^ 


IS 


^5 fe 


s ? 




S f 


\ 


^ 


^ 


s V 


^ 




J5 


Lo 


S g 


^ "* 


ess 


^ Breast Mea Stale '^ t t t 


•*. 


5s 




-; <^ ^ L 

a> -^^ ^» ^ 


og S5 S SS 1 *S 






^ 


1 




¥ 


p 


g 


. 


esa 


^ 


k» |m 1 


>o |ev 




to 

5i 


h 


55 5 




S '^ sj 


^ to ce |-< 


"S" 




C4 


t\ 


.b 


s 


s 


:j ^ *■ |n, <s cc 


s; ¥Si;s 5 35 


5s 


r_ 






J— 


1 


=i 


= 


1 


j= 











== 


= 


= 


= 


L_ 




=^= 


— 


!=L 


=!= 


ill 


r 


= 


^ 


Mill 


"TTTrT 1 






^. 






Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by AoonsTns Koch, in the Office of 
tbe Librarian of Congress, at Wasliington. 



CAUTION. 

To JUl Whotn it Jffay Concern : Notice is hereby given to all persons in whose hands 
a copy of tiiis work may bo placed, that tlie publisher of this work is tiie sole proprietor and vender, 
according to the laws of the United States of America ; and any person or persons wiio attempt to 
publish, or have it publislied, in whole or in jjart, or teach others from the illustrations and instruc- 
tions herein contained, will hold themselves liable to heavy penalties. And further, it is understood, 
that this work is not transferable to a third party without a written consent from the publisher, which 
consent will be attached to the work so transferred j and for any violation thereof, proceedings will 
be ■Gomiueuced at once against all such offenders. 



Printed at tUe OfBce ol the Poughkekpsib Tbxeqraph and Dadly Prsss, 286 Main StKet, Ponghkeepsie, N. Y. 



^^ ;Z)-^^^ 



PRE FAC E . 



This volume is intended to show a. nkw disoov- 

ERY IS THK AkT AXD SciENCE OF GarMENT-CuTTING. 

It lias been my great aim to lay before the trade 
a work on Garment-Cutting which shall be found 
true and reliable in all points, adapted to the re- 
quirenicnls of the age, and such a work as only 
study and e.N]>erience can offer. 1 am well aware 
of the great undertaking to have published and in- 
troduced to the Cutting profesi-ion a work like this, 
being well aware of the fact that there are some 
critics, and always will be, who, no matter how 
good a work is, will condemn it before they will 
give the same a fair trial and find out the real 
value contained in the same. 

There is a great number of systems ou the art 
(if cutting, now in use among the cutters of the 
United States of America, which, when introduced 
to the profession, were very highly recommended ; 
and some of them have proved themselves what 
their authors claimed them to be ; but, on the other 
hand, it has been proved also, that there is a great 
number of the so called systems which do not 
deserve tiie name of a system at all ; but even iu 
such cases the practical cutter, who has been duped 
with such systems, will learn lessons which do him 
a great deal of good. 

"While, as we have before stated, a great many 
systems are used by the profession all over the 
country, yet, there is room for advancement to 
bring forth good, scientific points not yet discover- 
ed ; and, as every truth-loving cutter will admit, 
we have a great field to labor in and advance step 
by step to make the cutting profession a com]>!etc 
success. 

From this stand point alone to advance in know- 
ledge, it has been prepared for the Press. 

This system is the fruit of continual study for 
nearly twenty years, in which time the author has 
been a pratical cutter. All this time he has been 
studying not only to keep up with the times, in 
the advancement of fashion, but to advance in the 
iirt of cutting, and from this stand point alone this 
work is handed to you 

The work, in the way of engraving and reading 
matter has been gotten up in a good and reliable 
manner — having spared no time or money to have 
it made complete. The diagran^.s show plainly the 
drafting, and the two figures the measurement, and 
the reading part explains it iu a manner so clear 
that the vounsr man who does not understand cut- 



ting at all. can easily loarn it without other instruc- 
tion. 

In regard to the measurement, there is a great 
advancement, which will make the Garment Cut- 
ting a complete success. The discovery by the au- 
thor of this work, of the One Great Measure, 
called THE Shoulder eegulatok, and with the 
simple way of applying the same in connection 
with three other measures, called Front, Back 
and Waist Balance — which are all taken from 
One Point, never fail to give the correct shoulder 
length, at back shoulder point, fob all forms ok 
THE Human Body, combined with some other 
reliable measures, will in all cases bring the 
desired result, to get the form of the body drafted 
for down on the draft. 

It may be the case that some authors of systems 
may use similar measures, as some measnrea have 
been used for many years, — for instance, balance 
measures, single and double shoulder measures, &c., 
have been used by different authors, iu different 
ways and forms ; but as far as I know I use these 
measures in a different form from others. The 
scale accompanying this work, is a division from 
the shoulder and arm depth measure, which gives 
the width from A and E lines, as will be seen in 
diagram A, and is only known to the author of 
this system. 

The sleeves, as well as the skirts, are drafted in 
a new manner, different from any other system, — 
the sleeves are drafted //•ojw the only reliable points; 
which will in all eases give th.e correct width, 
height of sleeve head, and also depth of front 
seam, and in all cases gives the shape according to 
the body drafted for. 

The skirt is also drafted in an easy and sure 
way ; it gives the exact spring at back skirt, so 
there are no changes necessary after the draft is 
made. The sj'stem is in the whole original. 

In conclusion let me say to all, who are favored 
to have a copy of this work placed in their hands, 
lay aside all your prejudices, and follow the instruc- 
tions given in this work and not mix these instruc- 
tions up with your ideas, and yon will have success. 
May tliis be the means to bring forth more new 
ideas on the art of garment cutting, for the field 
is large to labor in, to allow more new discoveries 
in the art of professional cutting. 

T.4K Author. 
PuuaHKEEPSLK, N. Y.. March, ]87<f 



Plate I. 




PLATE I. Figures 1 and 2. 

THE MEASUREMENT. 

HOW TO GET THE MEASUREMENT FOR A COAT. 



Tlie two Figures show plainly the application of 
the tape measure, for all the points which are neces- 
sary in this systen), and all the difterent points are 
marked with letters, so any cutter with fair knowl- 
edge can use this S3'steni, without any trouble. Now 
in regard to the measurement, any cutter will know 
it is of importance ; tlien, from a correct meas- 
urement comes the result of good fitting garments, 
that is providing the measures whicli have to be 
used in a system amount to something. There are 
hundreds of systems with a large number of meas- 
ures which have to be taken for the same, and very 
few of all the measures will have effect on the 
draft, because if there is any measure among them 
which will bring a good result, the others will spoil 
it again. 

The first thing in a good system is, to use as few 
measures as possible, and these few must be taken 
from the right points to bring, in all cases and 
forms, the results they are intended to bring. 
There are some systems where you must have 
measuring square, and measuring machines whei'e 
tlie customer is harnessed up as a horse in harness, 
whicli makes it v&ry disagreeable for the customer, 
and also for the cutter; and in all swh cases with 
measuring instruments, more mistakes are made 
in measuring than we have an idea of. I have nsed 
the measuring square in former years and can 
speak from experience. In this system for measur- 
ing, I use no ruler or square, for there is only one 
point which requires tiie plumb line, and this I 
get by eye measure, — this point is in front of arm 
down in a straight line to waist, and is marked on 
Figure II at point D +. For a new beginner, it 
would probably be the best to use a short ruler for 
the commencement, until lie gets more used to it, 
and I will therefore explain it in here with a ruler, 
to make it more plain to tlie new beginner. I 
also take my measures all over the vest witliout a 
coat on; this may look hard to some, but it is full 
as eas3', as to take the measure over a coat, especi- 
ally over a bad fitting one. 

The great objection I have for measure-taking 
over a coat is simply this ; coats are more or less 
wadded, and some are stuffed out on some points to 
a great extent, so that it is impossible for any one 
to ascertain the real measure. On the other hand 



taking the measure over the vest, you will get the 
same, if carefully taken, correct, — no more and no 
less ; — and also if the customer is one sided, or in 
any other way built differently on one side from 
the other, you will notice it more easily than with 
the coat on. This I think will be sufficient to show 
you the advantages of measure-taking without 
square or coat. 

We will now commence to get our customer iu 
liis natural position. And here let me give you 
advice. Watch him before you are ready to take 
the measure, so you may know exactly if he stands 
according to his usual standing position. On an 
average you will find very few stooping men, when 
they are about to get measured for a garment; even 
the worst stooping ones will stand straight up, and 
of course should you measure them in this position, 
your garment would not fit. In such cases talk to 
them, and attract their attention to something 
else, and soon you will see them get back in their 
natural position and show their round shoulders. 
After you have your customer in his right position, 
then, as I said before, use for the commencement 
the ruler in front, bring the same close to the front 
of arm, and let it run down in a plumb line to 
hip, and make a mark inside of tiie ruler down 
at the waist to the hip bone, that is, on tiie same 
side which lies against the arm (always using the 
right arm), then make a cjialk mark across tlie toj* 
of liip bone, so that these two marks make a + 
at point D, Figure II. Next make a + mai'k at 
centre of neck one inch below where the top of 
cullar should come, and is marked on Figure I, A. 
Next mark centre of back at waist, wlii(;h you can 
do vei-y easily by centre of vest-back ; or letting 
the tape hang down from top of back, make a 
mark for E, Figure I. These tiiree points are of 
great importance to have them correct, as tlioy are 
tlie points in my system of measuring, wliich bring 
tlie balance for the coat. 

We will commence applying our measure : 
Measure down from A to B full length of w^aist 
ISf inches. Then to C full length of coat 38 inch- 
es. These 2 measures may be taken over the 
Coat. Bring tape on D or -|- Figure II. 
Measure back to E Figure I, centre of back 7^ 
inches. Bring tape at A, top of back; let tape 



6 



THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



run down over the shoulder blade in a direct line, 
as line F Figure I shows to -i- at point D, on Fig- 
ure II, 194- inches. From same point A let tape 
run down over the shoulder in front of arm to + 
at D, Figure II, 20i- inches. And at the same 
time measure to I at the hand for full length of 
sleeve, 3H inches. 

Then we apply our measure for Shoulder regu- 
lator. Bring tape measure on point D. -f- Fig. II, 
— let it come up to top of shoulder bone, or where 
arm joint is, as line H. Fig. II shows; let it run 
across in a close fitting manner, and bring it down 
again in front to the starting point at point I), and 
this will give us 31 inches. This measure should 
be taken in a close fitting manner to correspond in 
tightness with froiit and bacli balance. 

Bring tape measure on A, holding tiic end with 
your left hand, bring the tape over the shoulder in 
front of arm, and with your right hand bring it 
around close under the arm (close but not tight), 
let it sli]') through your fingers as you go around, 
and bring it up to A the starting point, as line G 
shows, on Figure I for arm depth 27 inches. Keep 
tape measure on A at top, liolding the end with 



your left hand, bring it down in front and around 
close under the arm, across the shoulder i>lade to 
center of back, as line K on Fig. I shows, 23|- 
inches, and this gives us the shoulder measure. 

We next bring tape around the breast as 
shown by line L, Figure I and II. Bring measure 
close up iii under arm, across the shoulder blade, 
and back in under arm to tlie starting [.oint 36 
inches (this measure should be snug but not tight). 
Next bring measure around the waist as line M 
shows, where the body is the smallest, and is in 
our measure 33 inches. This completes our meas- 
urement, standing as follows : 

18| Length of waist. 

38 Full length of coat. 

1\; Back waist measure. 

19^ Back balance. 

20|- Front balance. 

31|^ Full sleeve length. 

31 Siioulder regnlator. 
27 Arm depth. 

23 1- Shoulder measure. 
36 Breast. 

32 Waist. 



PLATE II. Diagram A. 
HOW TO GET THE CONSTRUCTION LINES. 



Take youi- sipiare and draw a line from A ti.' V, 
wln'cii i.s ciur construction line, and also square out 
from A to C or top line. Measure out from A to 
B, half the width of breast measure, or, in our 
draft, 18 inches. From B to C j^ of breast measure 
(on scale No. VI), this gives us the full width of 
our coat. We next get the width of back, and also 
width of arm hole, or the distance between lines A 
and E in front of arm. Tiiis, as every cutter of 
practice and experience knows, is of great impor- 
tance to locate line E in the right place, and from 
this alone we can expect a gootl fitting gar- 
ment. Take for instance a man with a breast 
measure of 36 inches, well formed, shoulders well 
back, breast broad and full, and yuii will find the 
shoulder measure from one to two intlies smaller 
than the regular size of 36 breast measure gener- 
ally rccpiires. In this case it takes less cloth from 
centre of back to front of arm sye, and more from 
front of arm sye to front of breast. On the other 
hand again, take a man with the same breast meas- 
ure, 36 inches, his arms are more in front, back 
broad, measure Iiim, and what will the shoulder 
measure tell you in this case \ It will tell you this : 



v,-e want more cloth betwecu centre of back and 
front of arm sye. Your shoulder measure is more, 
and conserpiently your front or E line conies more 
in front. 

In the first case, the customer requires more 
clotli in front of breast, because he is smaller in 
tlie back, and in the second case, the customer is 
larger in the back and smaller in front. 

Supposing now, you have a system of tlie so 
called breast measure system which gives the differ- 
ent points of every customer you measure alike, 
from centre of back to front of arm sye | of the 
breast measure, and what will be the result ? lu 
the first case above stated the coat would be too 
full ill the back and under the arms, while it would 
be to small in front of the breast, because the full- 
ness in the back is needed in front of the breast. 
In the second case, you will find the back to the 
front of arm sye too small, and the breast too full, 
because the fullness in front is needed in back. 
The arm hole is too small, and yet, when you look 
at it closely you find there is more or less extra 
cloth in back under the arms than is needed ; the 
coat wrinkles under the arms, side body and back. 



PlateE 




THE CVTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



Every movement the cnstoiner makes shovvB plainly 
it is a spoiled garment, which can never be made 
to give satisla'-tion to tlie enstomer, nor to yonr- 
self. 

You may go to work and alter the same, cut out 
arm sye in front to give more room to the wcarei', 
bnt yon will lind it is a worse fit afterwards than 
it was before, and you ask me wliy it is so, or 
what is the cause which makes it so % By doing 
so, you change all the other points, and the conse- 
quence is, it brings the whole coat out of balance. 
It ma}' by cutting ont the arm sye make tiie coat 
somewhat easier, bnt it will draw more wrinkles up 
in front of arm and also across the side body. 
Then comes wadding in play and it will be stnfted 
ont in all the ]>laces where the wrinkles are, and 
by tlie time you are through almost a day's labor is 
gone, and a bad fitting coat in the bargain. I 
therefore say, if you want a good and easy fitting 
coat, it is necessary to have this point line E right- 
ly located, and this can only be done by actual 
measurement, to ascertain the amount necessary 
for the enstomer you are drafting for. 

We go on now with our draft and show how we 
get the different points. We have point B ami C 
at top, we next will get lines D, E and F, and this 
we get Ijy the scale, which accompanies my system, 
but before we can do so, we must find out the dif- 
ference if any, between Shoulder measure and Arm 
ileptli measure. We take our scale No. IV (which 
gives the Arm de]3th measure) and mark down 
trom A to <), 27 as our measure calls for Arm 
depth, and make a mark. We take Scale No. I, 
(or Shoulder measure Scale) and measure down 
from A, 23^ as shoulder Measure calls for, and 
make a mark also. Now, as yon will find, the 
difference between these two points is only \ inch, 
as it will be the case in all proportion sizes, and 
consequently will give us one-half of the shoulder 
measure from A. to E. But as above stated, we 
will meet with cases where tlie Slioulder Measure 
may be 21 inches, and Arm depth 27 inches, a 
<liffereiice of 2|- inches, as it would be in the fir-st 
case above mentioned. In this case we will make 
the distance from A to E one-half the amount, (or 
1 } inches on Scale No. I) less, or in other woi-ds 
we would measure out with tlie Scale No. I, 19|. 
This is also the case where tlie Shoulder measure 
comes below Arm depth measure, as it will be by 
round Shoulder Structures. In such cases we 
make the distance from A to E so much more, as 
the Shoulder measure runs below Arm depth. 

This I think is suflicient to be fully understood. 
AVe go on and locate our hncs on top, take your 



Scale No. I, bring 23 J on A, and make a mark in 
front for E line, and at the same time mark 23^ 
on Scale No. II, for F line ; and then mark 23J- 
ou Scale No. Ill, for I) line ; and square all these 
lines D, E. F. down — bring distance from A to D 
or width of back from A to AA, and draw a line 
across. The distance Ijetween A and E line is in 
this draft 11| inches. 

Measure the distance between E and B in front, 
take one-half the distance and mark point G. 
Lay on your tape at E at top line, let it run down 
on line E, and mark for front balance 20^ inches, 
■which gives us line H, lay on your square at li or 
20i inches, square across back and front, measure 
back on this line H from E lines to I, 7^ inches, 
as our back waist measure calls for, measure back 
from I to J, whi<;h gives in this draft 4i inches ; 
take this 4-| inclies, divide it in three parts, and 
bring one part in from J which gives us point K, 
and is in this case 1^ inches distance. 

We next get our height of back, and tliis we get 
in tiie following way : in our measurement the back 
balance is 19^ inches, bring 19^ Inches from H to 
L, and make a mark. Take one half the distance 
from J to K (or f inches in this draft) and bring 
this above L to M making now in all 20| inches. 
Lay on your tape measure at point H and E (or 
where line H crosses E line) let tape I'un up to M, 
bring crayon on M, and in this ]50sition while you 
hold tape measure at cross of E and H line with 
your thumb nail, inside of line E, make a sweep 
i'rom M to N, which gives us the correct height in 
back of neck. In this way we get front and back 
balance according to the shape of our customer, 
and to make you sure in this case ot our draft the 
distance from E and H line to N, in a straight line 
up is 20| inches. We next get our arm depth, 
the measure of this is 27 inches, take \ of the 2T 
inches, which makes \2>\ inches, lay tape measure 
on point G, let it run down from G to centre of E 
and F lines 13^ inches and make a sweeji. Bring 
tape on point N at back, let it lun down 13|- 
inches to centre of E and F lines and make a 
sweep the same as in front, and where these 
sweeps ci'oss each other, is the point of bottom 
line of arm depth. Square out from centre or A 
line, and if line out in the crossing of the sweep 
lines come below the mark from Scale No. IV for 
Arm depth, then mark centre between these 
points, and draw O line across. Then measure 
the distance from N to O lines, mark centre for P 
line ; from F to O line mark centre for Q line j 
and K lines in centre of Q and P lines. Square 
these lines across ; measure down from N to Y 



THE CU TIERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



full length of waist or \%\ inches, and square line 
V across to X. Draw a lino at O by K and 
crossing of P and F lines, for :i guide tt' form the 
back ; also let ruler rest on K and on top at 
crossing of R and F lines, and draw a line up 
from R for pitch of back. A1-" draw a line from 
S to G at top. 

You will remember the difference between our 
Arm depth measure and Sliouldtr measure at O is 
\ inch, bring this \ inch in from centre line at O, 
bring ruler on this mark, let top rest on P and 
center line and in this position dr^w a line for 
hollow of back. Having all tlicse points, add % 
inch at top of back on line i) for spring, and 
finish back as Diagram A. 

In giving tliis I would say, the cutter is en- 
tirely at liberty to bring tlie drop of shoulder on 
back higher or lower according tu the taste of the 
cutter. I have a great objection to any system which 
gives a fixed point, which cannot be changed with- 
out danger of spoiling the garment. Yon can suit 
yourself in regard to the slioulder drop on back, 
as * 1 and 2 in front regulate tli« whole for its self 

APPLICATION OF THE SHOULDER KEGULATOK. 

We next show the application of the Shoulder 
regulator, which, if correctly taken, will bring iii 
sdl cases the right length of Shoulrler. 

E3' looking over our measures we find them as 
follows: Front Balance, 20| ; Back Balance, l!)i : 
making in all 40 inches: the Siiuuldcr regulator is 
;U inches. Deduct this from 40 inches, leaving a 
balance of inches. Bring this balance (or 9 
inches in thi-s draft,) from top of F line down to T. 
Square out in front, and this gives us T S line or 
line for * 1. Measure up from T on F line to top 
of Shoulder seam on Back, whii-h will give, in this 
draft, 1 ^- inches. Bring this 1 ! inches on hue T S, 
from E line out, and this hrirg- ' 1. Then bring 



tape on crossing of F and O line, and make a 
sweep from * 1 to * 2. Bring tape on * 2. Let 
crayon rest on crossing of S, G- and A A lines, and 
make a sweei> to F line, for Shoulder seam on 
froiit part. Give spring at top of front Shoulder 
]>oint of \ inch, and finish as shown in Diag. C. 

But we very often meet with cases wiierc point 
T will come above the Shoulder seam on Back, as 
it will be with high Shoulder structures- -where 
the Shoulder Regulator may be 34 inches, and 
front and back balance the same as above. This 
would leave a balance of 6 inches ; and, conse- 
quently, would bring T S line \\ inches above 
Shoulder seam on Back In this case we measure 
the distance from T, on F line, down to top of 
Shoulder seam on Back, which will give ns 1|- 
inches, same as before. But the Shoulder Regu- 
lator calls for more length of Back Shoulder point 
on front jiart. We therefore bring the li- inches 
on T S line inside of E line. We also measure 
the same IJ inches back from F on O line, for the 
point of sweep from * 1 to ' 2. This includes all 
cases where T S line comes above the Shoulder 
seatn of Back. 

Mark jioint U \ the distance from O to R line 
(or back Sleeve Seam i>oint) for front Sleeve Seam. 
Draw Sweep lines at Waist by R and F lines as 
Diagram. Bring tape at G — let it run down to U ; 
bring it around in same shape as armhole will be, 
to centre of back at O, to find out if it will corres- 
pond with Shoulder, measure. Allow 1 inch for 
seams, and whatever is more than this we take out 
between Back and Side body. Then form the 
armhole in back and under the arm. Mark in on 
II line from inside seam on Back, | of the distance 
from I and J, — which is in this draft 3 inches, — 
and make a mark. Having all this, cut out the 
back, and this will l>ring us to Diagram B. 



PLATE III. Diagram B. 



Bring the back on point of ^^ide body at top. 
I>et it rest on mark from shoulder measure. Stick 
in a pin at O line, and shove it in on bottom so it 
rests on mark of | on H line ; and in this position 
draw a line along on back, and shape the Side 
body by giving rounding at tup and spring at 
bottom, as it will need. Bring back at top, even 
with side body. Let it rest behnv at side seam, 
and make a mark at bottom fur length of Side 
body. Bring square on E line. Let short arm 
I'un back to point of Side body, and draw a line 



across. Mark up on line E to W, from lower line, 
1^ inches, or yV of Breast measure, and draw 
bottom line of Side body by these two points 
Draw a line for width of Side body. Bring the 
Back in a joining position on Side body at the 
Waist. Then measure from E to H line on Back 
the Back Waist measure 7^ inches. Allow \ inch 
for seams, and the balance we take ont between 
front and Side body : but be careful and not 
commence too high up below line in taking out 
the fish. Having this, then bring 7i- inches on 



PlateHL 




J 






Plate IV, 








Plate V. 




THE GUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



back Waist measure on E line at H, and measure 
out in froftt |- the Waist measure, (16 inches) with 
J- inch allowance for seams, making in all 17^- 
inches. Make a mark in front at Y. Then draw 
bottom line of front part, commencing on line of 
Side body, and coming out at X. Measure down 
on front line from C 36, on Scale No. Y, to Z. 
Bring ruler at this point and D at top line, and 
draw a line from E to Z for bottom of Neck ; also 
draw a line from B to C and O line for length of 



Neck. Having all these points, then bring the 
Back on top of Shoulder in a closing position, and 
in this way finish the Neck Gore ; also bring the 
back in at back Shoulder seam, and mark the 
width for front Shoulder, and then finish the Arm- 
hole as shown in Diagram. Then draw front line 
from Neck point to bottom of the front part for a 
Double Breasted Coat, and finish all the rest as 
shown in Diagrram B. 



PLATE IV. Diagram G. 
SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A SINGLE BREASTED COAT. 



The Single Breasted Coat is drafted in the same 
manner as the Donble Breasted, the only differ- 
ence is in front. Measure out 2|- inches on top 
line from C, on sizes from 3i to 38 Breast, and 2i 
inches above tlicse sizes, and in the same propor- 
tion less below 31 sizes. Measure out at the waist 
from 1 to 1|- inches for Coats to button. Draw a 
line down in front, and finish as Diagram or 
according to fashion. 

Then measure down from Ct to U for the sleeve 
length, which is in our draft 12 inclies. Mark this 



down. Bring the back on slioulder point in a join- 
ing position, and measure around the upper Arm 
Sye from line R at Back pitch to U, in front, 
which is in our draft 9 inches. Mark this also 
down. Both of these measures we need to form 
the sleeve — the first one is to get the sleeve length, 
(as shown in Diagram E, draft of sleeve,) the 
second measure, from E to U, is to get the width 
and depth of front sleeve seam, and is tlio distance 
from A to B in Diagram E. 



PLATE Y. Diagram D. 
SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT A COAT FOR A CORPULENT MAN. 



This Diagram is a Coat, measuring 46 inches 
Breast and 50 inches Waist. It is drafted in the 
same manner as other Coats. The only reason I 
give this Diagram is to shovv how easy you can 
get a draft for any form by my system. The 
measure for this Coat is as follows : 

21 Full M-aist length. 

40 Full lengtli of Coat. 

!^ Back waist measure. 



22|- Back balance. 
24 Front balance. 
37 Sleeve length. 
35 Shoulder regulator. 
331- Arm depth. 
29|- Shoulder measure. 
46 Breast measure. 
50 Waist measure. 



10 



THL CUTTERS^ CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



PLATE VI. Diagram E. 
SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 



Draw a line from A to O, and square out at top. 
Brinaj the distance from K and Q line on back (or 
1 inch) from A to C, and make a mark. Then 
bring the measure from R line at back pitch to U 
in front of Arm Sye, as we have explained on 
page 9, or, in this case, 9 inches. Allow \ inch 
for Seams, making in all ^\ inches from A to B. 
Bring tape measure at B, and make a sweep line 
from A to D. (Be careful to not let tape slip in 
under your finger.) Then bring tape at A, and 
make a sweej) from B to D, and point D, or where 
these lines meet each other, will make our width 
of Sleeve and also depth of front Sleeve seam. 
Lay on the square at top line, let long arm of 
square run down in front of Sleeve, and draw a 
line from top to K. Measure down from C to E 
the distance from ii to O line on Back (or Z\ 
inches). Square out from E to F, and measure 
out on this line from E to F same distance as from 
C to E, 3i inches. Bring tape on this mark at F, 
with crayon on point C, and make a sweep from C 
to front, for Sleeve head. Form it in front from 
sweep line to D. Measure in from front line to G 
same distance as from E to F, .3i inches. Bring 
tape on this point, and make a sweep from front 
line, \ inch above crossing of sweep lines at D, to 
F, for under side of Sleeve. Then bring the arm- 
hole measure, for under side, from U, in front, 
around under the Arm to R line at back pitch, (or 
7J inches,) from D to I, in a straight line, and 
make a mark, — and shape upper and under Sleeve 
as Diagram. 

Then bring measure from front part, or from G 
to U, which is 12 inches, as before stated, on D. 
Measure down on front line to K, for full length 
of Sleeve, which is in this case 31' inches, and 
allow I inch for seams; and in so doing, by ap- 
plying our measure from G to U, and from U to 
K, we will get the correct length of Sleeve. 
Make a mark at this point. 

Take \ the distance from D to K square across, 
which gives us line L or elbow point. Lay on the 
square— let augle rest on K, and long arm run up 
to F. Draw a line across at the bottom of sleeve. 
Measure in from K to M width of Sleeve, ac- 
cording t<:> fashion, now about 6 inches. Draw a 
line from M to L line, and finish Sleeve as shown 
in Diagram or fashion. Hollow out at front if 
needed, or make front seam straight, as fashion 
may dictate. 



In drafting the Sleeve according to my system, 
you will find it gives the shape for every Sleeve 
according to the form of the body. It is more in 
getting a good fitting Sleeve, as the most of cut- 
ters in general have an idea of. 

Cutters, in general, study to get the Ijody of the 
Coat right ; that is, if they have a system which 
has a fault in giving too much cloth in one place, 
or wrinkling in another, to avoid these errors; 
and will not rest until they find out the cause that 
brings this. But very few will give their study to 
the Sleeve, which alone gives a good fitting Coat 
an elegant and graceful appearance. A good 
many cutters have the fashion of trying the gai'- 
ment before it is finished, to ascertain if it is cor- 
rect, or if they must take out a piece under the 
arm, or side body, shoulders — and even at the 
waist they will have to make alterations. Now 
then, if they have the luck to find a Coat all right 
in those places, so it sets smooth in under the arm 
and side body, also on top of the shoulders, it is 
pronounced a perfect fitting Coat. The Sleeve is 
put in afterwards, because, as I have said before, 
very few cutters look at the Sleeve as of much im- 
portance. The Coat is finished, and when tried 
on again it will astonish the artist. There is a big 
wrinkle on side body, extending across to the back, 
shoulders hanging down, which were intended to 
be square, and, on the whole, there is no lifelike 
appearance in the garment. The question is, then, 
who is to be blamed for this ? And, in nine cases 
out of ten, the blame is laid on the tailor (which, 
in some cases, may be true). But there is a cause 
for all this ; and this is, your sleeve head is not in 
the right shape to fit in the Coat ; and, if you 
doubt this, rip out the sleeve at the toji, from front 
to back seam, and you will find it wants more 
length at the sleeve head to allow the shoulder to 
raise up, and not pull down on top of shoulders 
and also at back pitch : you will see at once the 
Coat is all right, but your sleeve is too short on 
top. I claim that my system of drafting sleeves is 
diflerent from any system which is in use, and will 
in all cases, if the points are put down correct, 
give a good fitting sleeve. I still further claim, it 
is the easiest and simplest rule of drafting a sleeve, 
because it comes after you apply your measure 
from A, B, C, E and F, all by sweeps ; and any 
cutter of common talent can draft out a good 
fitting sleeve in less than one minute time. 



Plata W. 







O 



^ 



•^1 



B 



W. 





Plate W:, 








TEE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



11 



Diagram N. 
HOW TO DRAFT THE LAPEL. 

Draft it out in the following way : Draw a line 
down from A to B. Measure down from A to C 
2|^ inches. Square out to D. Mark out on top 
to D 2 iflches at O line, or where it joins O lino in 
front, 2|- inches, and at tlie bottom 2 inches. 
Draw a line from C to D, at top line, for the 
point of lapel, and from D mark, down in front, 
for rounding, striking at O 2|, and at the bottom 
2 inches, and cut it out. 

Diagram 0. 
HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT ON BACK, 

The Skirt on the back is drafted in the fol- 
lowing way: Measure back from centre line, or V, 
1 \ inches, and draw a line by N and 1 .', down full 



length of the Coat — 38 inches square across on 
bottom. Mark the same width at bottom as it is 
from IJ inches to W at side seam on back. Draw 
a line down inside by side seam and lower mark, 
for width of back skirt, and give the necessary 
rounding for spring. Then draw a corresponding 
line with the rounding for the plait, and finish it 
according to taste or fashion. 

THE COLLAR. 

The Collar is drafted in the following way, as 
shown in Diagram C : Draw a line for the crease 
of lapel by front shoulder point. Mark the width 
of back from shoulder point back. Then bring 
the crease of Collar in the back \ inch below the 
straight line, and square up and down in centre by 
this crease line. Mark up 11 inches, or as fashion, 
and for the standing Collar \\ inches, and finish 
as Diagram C or fashion. 



PLATE YII. Diagram F. 
DRAFTING A SKIRT FOR A DOUBLE BREAST FROCK. 



This is, as in Diagram E, of more importance 
than it is generally thought of. The Skirt is also 
a part of the Coat, which, when in a good shape, 
and in a good hanging position, will add a great 
deal to the elegance of the garment. Therefore, 
it is more worthy of our study than it generally 
receives. My system for drafting Skirts has good 
and reliable points, and will give a Skirt for every 
Coat according to the shape of the body for which 
it is drafted. It is simple in the waj' of drafting, 
and correct in all the points — more so than I have 
seen in any other systen). Every line and point is 
taken from the body, and brought down on 

THE DRAFI'. 

Draw a line in front from A to B. Measure 
down from A to C, one-half of breast measure, or 
9 inches, in tin's draft, and square in to D. 
Measure in from C to D 1 inch, and if more full- 
ness is desired make it 1| or even 2 inches. This 
point is governed by the fasJiion, and must be 
changed accordingly. Bring angle of square at A, 
let short arm rest on D, and in tliis position draw 



a line on top from A to E. Then bring Waist 
Measure, measuring front part, side body and 
lapel, adding 1 inch for fullness from A to E. 
Draw a line for hollowing at top, as shown by 
dotted lines, not exceeding more than \ inch in 
centre of A and E. Mark in from E \ of distance 
from A and E, or width of Waist to F. Square 
down to H, and bring the 1| inches, which we 
have marked up on E line, to W, for bottom line 
of side body, from Waist seam to H (or, in other 
words, from dotted line to H in Diagram F,) bring 
srpiare at E, let short arm rest on H, and draw a 
line from E to G. This line will give the correct 
spring at back Skirt. Bring side body in a joining 
position at Waist, the point resting on E ; and in 
this way give the necessary rounding from E to G. 
Draw a corresponding line for the phut. Measure 
down from A to B length of back Skirt, or 19'- 
inches; also, in centre, from dotted line, allow \ 
inch at this point. Then measure also in back, 
and allow \ inch for fullness: and shape the bot- 
tom by these three marks, and finish all tho rest as 
shown in Diasram F. 



12 



TEE CUTTERS'' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



PLATE VIII. Diagram G. 
HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT FOR A CUTAWAY FROCK AND DRESS COAT. 



Draw a line Irom A to E. Bring Waist 
measure from B to C. Mark \ of this measure 
from C to E. Square up to F and also to *. 
Having this, then bring the distance, marked up 
on E line, to W, for side body, (which is \^ inches,) 
between * and F, making f inch each way from E. 
Then draw a line for top of Skirt from C to B, as 
shown in Diagram. Bring angle of square on C, 
let short arm rest on *, and in this position draw a 
line from C to D. Bring side body on top in a 
joining position, and give rounding on back Skirt 
as it may need. Bring front part on Skirt in a 



joining position at B, and draw a line down in 
front to G. Measure down from C to D length of 
Skirt ; also, in front. Make it -J- inch less in front, 
and finish the whole as Diagram. 

The Dress Coat Skirt is drafted in the same 
manner — all the points are the same as before 
stated. Measure out from C to H | of Breast 
measure, and from D to I ^ Breast. Mark down 
from II 1| inches, and at B 1^ inches, for Belt. 
Draw a line from H to T, and shape the Skirt, as 
shown in Diagram or according to fashion. 



PLATE IX. Diagram H. 
SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT BODY SACK. 



Sack Coats are drafted on the same principle as 
Frocks. All the construction lines are the same : 
the measurement is the same also. Therefore it 
will not be necessary to say more about it. I only 
will say, if you follow this plan correct you will 
get a neat fitting body Sack, which will give satis- 
faction to the customer as well as to yourself. 

The raeasui'e is as follows : 

34 Full length of coat. 

7-i Back waist measure. 

19A Back balance. 

20 1 Front balance, 

31^ Sleeve length. 

31 Shoulder regulator. 
27 Arm depth. 

23i Shoulder measure. 
36 Breast measure. 

32 Waist measure. 

Draw a line from A to V, full length of Coat ; 
also, square out at top. Mark from A to B ^ the 
Breast measure IS inches, from B to C — 36 witli 
Scale No. VI, or 3 inches, square down in front for 
C line. Find out the difi'erenee between Shoulder 
and Arm depth measure, as explained in Frock 
Coat. Mark down from A, with Scale No. lY, 27, 
and with Scale No. I, 23i, as both of these 
measures call for. Then mark out from A to E, 
with Scale No. I. Bring 23} on A, and make a 
mark in front, and in the same time mark 23J on 
Scale No. II, for F line, and with Scale No. Ill 
mark out from A to D 23|. Square these lines 
down. Mark from A to AA, width of Back,or 



distance from A to D, and square this line also. 
Mark down from top, on E line 20i inches to H. 
Square across back and front. Measure in on H 
line 7}- inches to I. Measure from I to J. Divide 
it in three parts. Bring one part of this in from J 
to K, which is 1 J- inches. Measure up from H, on 
E line, to L, 19i inches, and from L to M bring -} 
of the distance from J to K (or J inches), and 
sweep by H E, from M to N, the same as Frock 
Coat. Divide distance from E to B, for G. Lay 
tape measure on G. Mark down to centre of E 
and F lines 13J inches, and make a sweep ; also, 
from N down 13J inches, and make sweep also. 
Square O line across from A to € in front, same as 
in Frock Coats. Measure centre between N and 
O on Back for P line ; also, centre from F to O, 
for Q line, and R in centre of P and Q. R line 
gives the point for Sleeve seain at back pitch. 
Bring ruler on K and R and F lines, as in Frock, 
and draw a line up from ]1 for pitch of Back. 
Mark centre from O and R on E line. Bring 
ruler on this centre mark. Let it rest at N and D 
lines, and draw a line for Shoulder drop on back. 
This will show you the Shoulder seam on Sack 
Coat comes higher up as Frock, and it will, in fact, 
make no difference how high or low you will place 
this seam, the * 1 and 2 will give the correct 
length of front Shoulder; aud, therefore, is left to 
the artist entirely to suit his taste. Mark in from 
J to * G inches {or fashion) ; from * to '••' -J- of the 
distance from I to J, or H inches ; also mark out 
on bottom 6 inches or fashion. Mark in on O line 



Pfafe Vm 







PlatelK. 








Plato X. 




THE CUTTEES' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



13 



the \ inch difference of Arm depth and Shoulder 
measure, and draw a line by this mark and II for 
hollow of Waist. Mark point for depth of Side 
seam, and finish the Back as Diagram. Bring 
tape measure on G, let it come under the arm and 
back to centre at O, and mark Shoulder measure ; 
allow 1 inch for seams, and the rest we take out 
between Back and Side Body. Make this mark 
the point to form Side seam, running down tu *, 
and also to bottom as Diagram. 

We next bring the Shoulder regulator measure 
down from top line to T. This is the same as in 
Frock Coat, 9 inches. Square across on bottom, 
for line S, out to * 1. Measure up from T to top 
of Shoulder seam on back on F line, which is in 
this draft 2 inches, and bring this out on S from E 
line to * ]. Bring tape on crossing of F and O 



line, and make a sweep from * 1 to * 2. Bring 
ruler on S and G, and draw a line. Bring tape on 
" 2, and sweep from crossing of G, S, and AA 
lines to F, for shoulder. Mark down with Scale V 
36 to Z. Draw a line by Z and D, from B to O 
and C, and finish the rest as e.'^plained in Frock 
Coats. Bring back Waist measure 7i inches, on E 
at H line. Mark out in front to Y 16 inches, or 
full Waist— from C on O line, for a Single 
Breasted Coat, 2?r, and at Y, It inches, and finish 
the front to fashion, and the whole as Diagram II. 
In regard to Double Breasted Coats, the distance 
from C on O line is 3 inches for sizes 34 to 38 
Breast, and above these sizes 3i- inches; and also 
the same from Y out. This, of course, is onl}' a 
guide, and is left to the artist to suit his taste. 



PLATE X. Diagram I. 
SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT SACK OVERCOATS. 



This Coat on Diagram I is drafted the same as 
Diagram H, or body Sacks, with very few excep- 
tions. I will only bring out those points which 
will be necessary to give a full understanding of 
the whole. By looking over the Diagrams you 
will find all points alike, and also the letters the 
same; but, after all, there is one point which I 
would impress on your mind, and that is from L to 
M on E line, which in Body Sacks is only ^ of the 
I (or point from J to K). On the Overcoat, how- 
ever, we must bring the whole \ on this point from 
L to M, because for the Overcoat we must have a 
longer back at top from O to N than for a Body 
Sack. Bear this in mind and there will be no mis- 
tits. Again, that the measure for Frock and Sack 
Overcoats should be taken over the Under Coat, or 
Body Coat, to give you the exact measure to draft 
by. I find this the best way to draft out the Over- 
coat. 

The measure for this Coat is as follows : 

44 Full length. 

8 Back waist measure. 

20|- Back balance. 

21-i- Front balance. 

32i Sleeve length. 

32|- Shoulder regulator. 

28'- Arm depth. 

25 Shoulder measure. 

38 Breast measure. 

33 Waist measure. 

Draw a line ftom A to V, and square out at top. 
Measure out at top from A to B 19 inches, from B 



to C 38, on Scale Jso. VI. Mark down with Scale 
No. IV, from A to O, 28 J, or Arm depth measure. 
Take Scale ^o. I and mark down from A, 25, or 
Shoulder measure, to find out the difference be- 
tween these two measures, as already explained in 
Diagram A. This, as you will find, is -|- inch — 
and gives us h the width of Shoulder measure from 
A to E at top. Bring Scale No. I at top line ; let 
25 rest on A, and make a mark in front for E. 
Mark with Scale No. II, 25, for line F, and with 
Scale No. Ill, 25, from A to D. Square these 
lines down. Mark from A to AA, width of Back, 
and square this line also. Then bring your front 
balance measure from E, at top, to H, 21-|- inches. 
Square line H. Measure back waist measure from 
H to I (8 inches). Measure from I to J, and bring 
\ of this measure from J to K. Measure up from 
H to L the Back balance measure, or 20|;. Then 
bring the \ from I to J (or tiie distance from J to 
K) from L to M, and make a sweep from M to N, 
for top of Back, same as in Frock Coats. Then 
mark centre from E and B, for G. Measure down 
from G I- the Arm depth measure, or 14]^ inches, 
and make a sweep; also, from N mark down 14:\ 
inches, and make a sweep also. Square line O 
across, as stated in Frock Coat. Mark centre from 
N to O for P, and Q line in centre of P and O, 
and R in centre of P and Q. Square these lines 
across. Bring ruler on K and R F crossing, and 
draw a line up from R for Back pitch. Mark 
centre of R and at E line, and draw a line from 
N D to Centre mark for Shoulder drop of Back- 



14 



THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



Draw a line by \ inch at O and R line, as in Body 
Sack, for hollow of Back. Mark out from J to * 
61 inches; also at bottom C| inches, or fashion, 
and finish back as Diagt-am. Then bring Shoulder 
regulator, after deducting it from front and back 
balance measure, leaving a balance of Oi- inches, 
from top line down on F to T. Square across on 
bottom for S line. Mark up from bottom of T 
to top of Shoulder seam on Back at F, which is in 
this draft 2{ inches, and bring this irom E out on 
S to * 1. Bring tape on crossing of F and O lines, 
and make a sweep from * 1 to * 2. Draw a line 
from S to G, and then bring tape on "" 2, and 
sweep for Shoulder to F line, as before stated. 
Then bring tape from G, around the Arm, back to 
O, to find out how it will corresjiond with Shoulder 
measure. Allow 1 inch for seams, and the rest 
take out between back and side body. Mark in 
from * to *, at H line, |, or distance from J to K. 
Give spring at bottom of fore part about 3|- inches, 
more or less, according to the fullness you want at 
the bottom of Coat, and finish side seams by these 
points. Having this, then finish the Shoulder part 
in the same manner as the Body Sack ; also, the 



Neck Gore as shown before ; and at top, for the 
fish, which is taken out, mark l* inches. 

Measure out for Waist from E, on H, to Y, de- 
ducting back waist measure, 161 inches, and allow 
1 inch for making up. Measure out from C, on O 
line, for a Single Breast Coat, 2i- inches; and, also, 
from y, or waist, 21- inches. Draw a straight line 
from 2| inches at O by 21- inches at H, and finish 
the front as per Diagram. For a Double Breasted 
Coat mark out at O and H line 31- inches. 

Measure also for Arm Sye from R to U, in front, 
91- inches, from G to U, for slee%'e length, 121- 
inches, and draft the sleeve by these measures the 
same as in Diagram E, by bringing 01- inches from 
A to B, and A to E, by back lines R and O, and so 
on as stated before in drafting sleeve. 

The Frock Overcoat is drafted in every way fis 
PVock Under Coats, without any changes whatever. 
The I, which is used by the Over Sack, from L to 
M, is only needed in Sack Overcoats. The only 
difl'erenee between the Under and Overcoat Frocks 
is the measure, which should be taken over the 
Under Coat. 



PLATE XI. Diagram K. 
SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT AN ENGLISH WALKING COAT. 



This Coat is in the construction the same as a 
Sack Coat, and will not be necessary to make more 
explanation about it except how to draft. 

The measure is as follows : 

211 YaW length waist. 

32 Full length of coat. 

7.J- Back waist measure. 

1'4 Back balance. 

201- Front balance. 

311 Sleeve length. 

31 Shoulder regulator. 
27 Arm depth. 

23|- Shoulder measure. 
36 Breast. 

32 Waist. 

Draw a line down on back, and also square out 
at top. Measure out from A to B, 18 inches, from 
B to C, 36, on Scale No. VI. Square down in 
front. Measure out with the Scale No. I 231 to E, 
from E to F 23^ on Scale No. II, and with Scale 
III 231 from A to D. Square all these lines down. 
Measure down on E line 20J inches to H. Square 
across. Measure back on H line to 1,71 inches; 



also, from I to J, bring \ of the same from J to K. 
Measure up from II to L, back balance, 19J- inches. 
Then bring 1 the distance between J and K, above 
L to M, and sweep by H, from M to N. Mark 
point G 1 the distance between B and E. Measure 
down from G 131 inches, for arm depth, and make 
a sweep. Measure down from N 131- inches, and 
make a sweep also. Square across for line 0. 
Measure up from to N. Take J the distance for 
P, and also for Q and R lines, and mark all the 
rest as stated in Sack Coat. Measure down from 
N line on back, full length of waist, 211- inches; 
and also from N to Y, full length of Coat, 32 
inches. Measure in on H line, from J, 1 inch ; 
and also from J, 41 inches, to *, more or less, ac- 
cording to fashion. From Y or bottom line 
measure out the same distance as from J to *, and 
finish the back as Diagram ; also, finish front the 
same as exjilained in Diagram H, and the whole as 
Diagram K. The sleeve is drafted in the same 
manner as Frock or Sack Coats, and need no more 
explanation. 



PlateXI. 




THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



15 



Diagrams A, H, and I. 
FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS OF THE READY-MADE TRADE. 



These diagrams are laid down on the same 
principle for drafting patterns for the Ready-Made 
Trade as they are by actual measurement; and, if 
drafted according to this plan, yon will have a 
good-fitting set of patterns. 

Diagram A. 

Square lines same as Frock Coat, before stated, 
from A down, and also square out to C at top. 
Measure out from A to B, IS inches, for 36 Breast, 
and from B to C 36 on Scale No. VI. Measure 
down from A to O, with Scale No. IV, 36 on 
Breast measure scale, and in the same time with 
Scale III, 36 from A to A A. Then bring Scale 
on top measure out with Scale No. I, 36. from A 
to E, Scale II, 36, from E to F, and with Scale III, 
36, from A to D. Square all these lines down. 
Mark down from A A to II i the Breast measure. 
or 18 inches, and square this line across. Mark in 
from J to I I of the Breast measure, or 4} inches ; 
take \ of this \ of Breast (or IJ inches), and bring 
it from J to K. Bring tape measure on 11 and E 
crossing, and crayon on top line at E, and make a 
sweep from E to N. This will give us the correct 
height at Back. Square across for N line. Mark 
centre of N and O lines for P, and also centre of P 
and O for Q, and also for R line. Bring square 
on K, and R and F crossing, and draw a line up 
from R, lor back pitch. Bring it to P and F 
crossing, and draw a line up for a guide to shape 
the Back, and finish the Back as explained in Dia- 
gram A. 

Draw sweep lines from H, and bottom line, by 
R, at back pitch. Mark in on H line, between 
back and side body | of the | Breast measure (or 3 
inches). Mark G in centre of E and B. Draw a 
line up from R and E, to G at top. Measure up 
from O, on F line, to top of l3ack shoulder seam, 
and bring |- of this measure, 2| inches in this draft, 
from E, on O line, to '" 2, and sweep from this 
point for front shoulder, as explained in Diagram 
A. Mark down in front, from C, with Scale V, 36, 
to Z. Draw line from Z and D, for Neck, from B 
to and O. Cut out the Back. Finish side body 
as before e.xplained ; also, Armhole. Then bring 
the Back at top, and finish this also, as before 
stated. Also, in front finish this according to taste 
or fashion. Measure down from G to U, for sleeve 



length, 12 inches; also, from R to U, as before 
stated, for drafting sleeve. All this is explained in 
Diagrams A and B, actual measurement. 

Diagram H. 

The Sack Coat is drafted on the same principle 
as the Frock Coat. Draw a line down in back, 
and square out at top. Mark out B, C, D, E, and 
F lines. Measure the width of Back, and bring it 
down from A to A A. Measure down from this 
point 18 inches, or 1- the Breast measure, to H. 
Square this line. Mark in from J to I } of Breast 
measure. Measure in from J | of an inch, and 
also from J 6 inches, for width of Back, at the 
waist to *. Take \ of the \ of Breast measure, 
from J to I, and bring it from * to ". Measure 
down, with Scale No. IV, 36, from A to O, for 
Arm depth. Square line O across. Make a 
sweep from E, H, and E and top line, to N, for top 
of Back. Square line N across. Mark line P, Q, 
and R, as before stated. Mark centre from O and 
R on E line, and draw a line by this mark, and N 
and D, for Shoulder Seam on Back. 

Measure up from 0, on F line, to top of back 
shoulder seam, and bring | of this measure from E 
to * 2, and sweep from this point for front shoulder, 
as before stated, and finish all the rest as in Frock 
Coat, or in Sack Coat, on actual measurement, 
Diagram U. 

Diagram I, or Sack Overcoat. 

This Diagram is drafted the same as Body Sack. 
,By drafting an Overcoat pattern on the same 
breast measure — 36 inclies — as Body Sack, Dia- 
gram II, we will get a 34 Breast Overcoat ; that is, 
it will fit a man measuring 34 inches Breast. A 
pattern drafted on 38 inches will fit a man 36 
Breast measure. This shows that an Overcoat 
wants to be 2 inches more in Breast measure than 
Body Coat. The only changes we have to make 
on Sack Overcoats from Body Sack is, we must 
add -|- inch on E line, above the top line, lor the 
sweep to N, which will make the coat so much 
higher in back. As the Overcoat wants to be 
longer in Back, to cover the Undercoat, this 
change is necessary. 

All the rest is as shown in Diagram I, already 
explained by actual measurement. 



16 



THE CUTIERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



Table for the Sleeve Length of Patterns for the Ready-Made Trade. 





DISTANCE 


FULL LENGTH 


SIZE OF 


FROM G TO U 


OF 8LEB\TEi PROM 


BREAST MEASURE. 


IN FRONT. 


G AT NECK. 


INCHES. 


INCIrE^;. 


INCHES. 


24 


H 


21 • 


26 


n 


23| 


28 


9f 


25 i 


30 


lot 


27l 


32 


11" 


291 


34 


m 


31" 


36 


12" 


32 


38 


12^ 


33 


40 


13' 


34 


42 


13J 


35 


44 


14" 


351 


46 


14.1 


36" 


48 


15" 


361 


50 


151 


37" 



Diagrams R, S, T, and U. 

HOW TO DRAFT THE INVERNESS CAPE, with or without sleeves, and also 
HOW TO PRODUCE THE THREE-QUARTER CAPE OR CIRCLE. 



This stjle of Overcoat, known as the Inverness 
Cape, wliich has been in demand for a number of 
years> has been, on acconnt of change in fashion, 
somewhat drawn aside; but, in spite of the de- 
crease in fasiiion, it is still in demand among some 
of the travelling community to some degree, and 
will be so for some time to come, as there is no 
question of the advantages it has for travelling pur- 
poses — it gives protection and comfort to its wearer. 
It leaves no question in my mind that some of the 
cutters will gladly receive this diagram, for some 
of them maj' have been in embarrassment in draft- 
ing out this style of garment. Most of the cutters, 
in producing this style of overcoat for the various 
forms, generally have to draft the same by gradu- 
ated scale.-;, and the result therefrom no doubt 
some have experienced, as all patterns drafted by 
graduated scales will be above 3S Breast measure 
— many sizes too large for the Breast measure for 
which they are intended. The only way to over- 
come the difficulty mentioned is to draft this style 
of garment by actual measurement, as we do in 
Frock or Sack Coats, and any other plan from this 
is only guess work. With these few introductory 
remarks I will proceed to lay before you the neces- 
sary directions for drafting this garment according 
to mv svstem. 



The measure is as follows : 
44 Length of coat. 

20 Back balance. . 

21 Front balance. 
32 Sleeve length. 
32 Cape length. 

32 Shoulder regulator. 
28.1 Arm depth. 

23i Shoulder measure. 
20 Length of neck.' 
36 Breast measure. 

33 Waist measure. 

THE DRAFT. 

Draw a line from A to Y, or full length of Coat ; 
also, square out from A for top line. Measure out 
from A to B the Breast measure, or, in this draft, 
18 inches; from B to C 1 the Breast measure, or 9 
inches; and from C to R 11 inches — in all cases 
from 34 size Breast measure up. These three 
measures give us the full width of the Coal. We 
next take our Shoulder measure, which is in this 
draft 231 inches, and will give us (by applying the 
same as explained in Frock Coats) 12 inches in 
width. This, as you will see, corresponds with the 
Breast measure of 36 inches, which will give us | 
from centre of Back to front of Arm Sye. Measure 



THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



17 



out from A to D -^ of Shoulder measure, or 3 
inehes; from D to F J- of the Shoulder measure, or 
6 inches; from A to O line full width of the 
Shoulder measure, or 12 inches; and from O to B 
i of the Shoulder measure, or 6 inches; making 
the distance from A to 1> 18 inches, or i more, as 
the Shoulder measuie. Then mark out from B to 
G -J of Breast measure, or 3 inches. Square these 
lines, D, F, O, B, G, down, as shown in Diagram. 
Measure in from B to E, :^ Breast measure, or 4^ 
inches, and make a mark. Then measure down 
from B, or top line, to M, 21 inciies, or front bal- 
ance measure. Then measure up from * on O and 
M lines to F, 20 inches, or back balance measure, 
and make a sweep to N, for top of Back ; and in 
this way we get the correct length in front and 
Back. Then we take our arm depth measure, 
which is in our measurement 2S|- inches. Bring 
tape on G at top. Let it run down 14^ inches, be- 
tween B and O line, and make a sweep. Also 
bring tape measure on mark of 20 inches, for back 
balance, at F line. Let it run down 14|- inches, 
and make a sweep also: and this will give line L, 
for bottom of Arm depth, as explained in Diagram 
A. 

AVe next measure down from top line at B to H, 
width of Back, or 3 inches, from top line to J, f of 
Breast measure, or 6 inches, and from same point 
to K I, or 9 inches ; and K to L we get from Arm 
depth measure. This will give ns the distance 
from B, or top line, to L, 13|- inches, or 28|- inches 
Arm dejith measure. Square lines across. Measure 
up from M to N, i- the Shoulder regulator, or 16 
indies. Allow -^ inch for seams, and this gives us 
line N. Square this line across. Line N will reg- 
ulate point J, from B line back, in bringing it up 
or down. By following this plan, we will get the 
front and Back length for every man we measure 
for this style of Coats, according to the standing 
position. 

In drafting Patterns fur the Ready-Made Trade, 
this is as follows: From A to D, ^; from A to F, 
4 ; from A to O, | ; from to B, -J- ; from top, or 
B, to H, J ; to J, I; to K, ^\ from K to L | of 
Breast measure from H to M is the Breast measure 
of the Coat. 

The centre of H and J will make line N; and 
this line will give the length of Back at top. All 
the rest is as laid down by actual measurement. 

Having all these points, as before stated, then 
we go on and finish our front and back in the fol- 
lowing way : Bring ruler on E at top. Let it rest 
on Q, the crossing of O and K, and draw a line 
down to bottom of Coat. Measure up from N, on 



D line, top of Back, I- inch for spring, and draw a 
line from this point to O. Bring ruler on the 
crossing of K and F line. Let it rest on crosrjng 
of Side seam at M line below, and in this position 
draw a line down to bottom of the Coat. Shape 
top of Back. Give rounding from N to L. as Dia- 
gram shows. 

Then shape front shoulder, commencing at E 
and N lines. Hollow out as shown in Diagram, 
striking H line at G. We next finish Arnihole at 
top, commencing at J and E lines, and shape it 
down in front to L. Measure the width from J to 
N, on E line, and bring the same in from Q to P. 
Add \- inch at this point, above Q on E line, for 
spring, and draw a line to P. Shape Armhole in 
back and under arm to L in front. 

Then measure down from N, or top of Back, to 
Y, full length of Coat. Draw line 1 inch from bot- 
tom across to I. Bring tape measure on D, and 
make a sweep for bottom of Back. Bring tape 
measure on B at top. Let it run down in a line 
with B line, and make a sweep i inch below bot- 
tom line to side seam on front part. Measure out 
from C line to I 2^ inches, and draw a line down 
in front from R to I. Then cut out the Back. 
Bring it ou front Shoulder point, and shape the 
neck in front. Measure in h inch froin^front line 
to S, and shape the front from S down. Measure 
back from C line ^ inch, and make this the point 
for length of Collar, and shape all the rest as Dia- 
gram R. 

This completes the Coat with Sleeves. 

The same Diagram shows how to draft the Coat 
without Sleeves. Measure down from L to X |, or 
3 inches, and mark up to Shoulder, as dotted lines 
show, for Armhole. All the rest is drafted as be- 
fore stated. 

Diagram S. 

How to draft the cape for the Inver- 
ness Cape Coat, 

Bring the front part on the cloth so front edges 
run even down. Mark the Neck on Cape the 
same as front part. Bring ruler on H and G lines, 
or front Shoulder point. Let it come in centre of 
N and J lines at E. Draw a line to Y. Measure 
down from G to U for length of Cape, 32 inches. 
Bring tape on H at B line. Make this point a 
pivot by bringing tape on this point, and sweep 
from U to V ; and from U draw a corresponding 
line to the front, and finish all the rest as shown in 
Diagram S. 



18 



Tilt CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



Diagrani T. (Marked en Diagr. J by mistake,) 

HOW TO DRAFT the CAPE CALLED 
THE THREE-QUARTER CIRCLE. 

This is a regular Cape, called the Three-Quartar 
Circle, and is worn by military men, and also by 
others to some extent : and cixn be worn over a 
Frock or Sack Coat. 

luring the front of the Coat fur which it is in- 
tended to be worn with on the cloth in the same 
manner as before stated in Diagr. S. Lay the 
Back in a closing position to the Shoulder of fore- 
part, the centre of Eack to represent the centre of 
Circle or Cape. 

Measure down from top line 3 inches; also, 
measure in from front shoulder point to H 3 inches, 
same as in Diagram R, and make a sweep from U, 
by making 11 a pivot, to W. Sliape the neck as 
Coat from which it is drafted. Then shape the 
rest according to taste or fashion, or as Diagram T. 



Diagram U. 



Draw a line from 1 to 3. Square up from 1 to 
2. Meajsure up from 1 to 0, 1-i- inches; from to 
2, 2] inches. Then measure the Neck of Coat. 
Bring this measure, oi' 10 inches in this draft, from 
1 to 3. Square up to 4. Make the width in front 
from 3 to 4, 2|- inches. Mark up in centre of 1 
and 3, 1 inch, and shape the Collar as shown in 
Diagram. 

The Sleeve for this style of Coats is drafted in 
the same manner as shown in Diagram E, with 
only one exception, and that is the measure we 
have from Frock Coats, from R to (), on back, 
which gives us the distance from A to C. We 
measure down from A to C, jV of Breast measure, 
and from A to B, \, with J inch allowance, the 
Armhole measure. Then sweep from A and B to 
D, same as explained in Diagram E. 



PLATE XII. Diagram L. 
SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A SINGLE BREAST VEST. 



In my'system tlie Vest is drafted in the same 
manner, with very little exception, as Coats. The 
measurement is the sauje ; also, the -drafting is on 
the same plan. The measurement stands as fol- 
lows for a Single Breasted Vest : 

7J Back waist measure. 

19^ Back balance. 

20J- Front balance. 

31 Shoulder regulator. 

27 Arm depth. 

23i Shoulder measure. 

1.5 Length ot collar. 

27 Full length of vest. 

23 Full length at hip. 

3fi Breast. 

31 Waist. 

Draw !i line down from A, and silso square out 
top line. Measure out from A to B ^ tke Breast 
measure, IS inches; from B to C, 2|- inches, for 
sizes from 34 to 40 — 2| above those pises, and in 
the same proportion less below 34 sizes ; from 32 
down to 28, 2| inches ; and below 28, 2 inches. 

Measure down from A to O, with Scale No. W, 
27, and also with Scale No. I, 23i, same as in 
Coats, to find out the difference between these two 
measures. This is also \ inch different, and will 
give ns the full width from A to E. Bring Scale 
No. I at top, 23^, resting on A, and make a mark 



in fr<»it of scale. Add ^ inch in front for seams, 
and make a mark for E line. Bring scale on E 
line. Mark in this position 23|, Scale II, for F 
line, and Scale III, for the middle line; also, with 
Scale No. Ill, from A to D, 23J, and stjnare these 
lines down. Measure down on E, from top to H, 
20 J inches. Square line II. Mark back to I, 7^ 
inches, as our measure calls for. Mark in from J 
to K, \ of the distance between I and J, for hol- 
lowing out the Back at Waist, and also }, inch 
from E line, back at H, to *. 

Then measure up from II, on E line, back 
balance measure, 191 inches, to L. Bring \ of the 
distance between I and J, .trom L to M, and sweep 
from H, E, and M, to N. Mark G, in centre of E 
and C. Measure down from G, to middle line, 
13^ inches, for Arm depth, and make u sweep; 
also, from N, 13|^ inches, and make a sweep also. 
Square line O across, between centre of sweep, 
and mark from Scale IV, on back. Then find out 
the difference between back and front balance, 
and the Shoulder regulator, as explained in Frock 
Coat, and is in this draft 9 inches. Bring this 
measure, or 9 inches, from top line, down on F to 
T. Square across to Q. Mark uj) from N to D, 
i inch. Shape the top of back by giving spring 
above line N. Draw a line for Shoulder seam, by 
top of Back and Q, at E line, ilcasui-e up froHi 



Ff/ttrX// 




r B ..G 




Ffa/rXW 





THE CUTTERS' CENTEI^NIAL GUIDE. 



\% 



T, on F line, to crossins of Slionkier line on F, 
whieli is in tliis dr.ift 3|- inches. Bring this ont 
from S, or middle line, to * 1. Measure up from 
O to T, 3j inehes, and bring this in from E line to 
P. Bring tape on P, and sweep from * 1 to * 2. 
Bring tape on * 2, and sweep from crossing of Q, 
G, and A A lines, und .-weep to F, for Siioulder 
on front i>art. Bring s<]uare on E at top line. 
Let it run to O, at A line, and make a mark on 
back Shoulder seam, for width of Shoulder. Then 
measure out from K, on II line, 1\ inches, or back 
AVaist, with 1 inch added for seams, making in all 
84- inches to *, for side seam on back. 

Form the back Armhole, commencing at to[> 
mark, and run down under the Arm to centre line. 
Shape side seam, commencing at middle line oa O, 
running down to *, and give spring at bottom. 
Then draw line on front to *, at E, on H line, as 
Diagram L shows. This leaves the Back, after it 
is formed at Waist, 8i- inches, — the tish taken out 
between front and back 24- inches, and from J to 



K li inches,— making in all 12^ inches from A to 
E. Bring 7^- inches, as our back- Waist measure 
calls for, on *, at front side seam, at II line, and 
measure out in front 15t inches, or full Waist 
measure. Allow i inch for the lap in front. 
Making with the extra |- inch allowance in front, 
17 inches Waist measure to Y. Bring tape at G, 
and measure down in front for length of Collar, 15 
inches; also for full length, 27 inches, with \ inch 
allowance for seams. Then bring tape on side 
seam from G, and mark full length, 23 inches, and 
allow also i- inch for seams. Draw a line by 23|^ 
inches, for bottom of Back, and finish the same as 
Diagram, and cut it out. Give spring at front 
shoulder point. Then bring the back on front 
part, on top line, and in this position finisli Arm- 
hole on front part. Draw a line from centre of E 
and Q G line, at front shoulder seam, to .full 
length of Collar, and shape the front by this line 
in neck. Finish the front, commencing at O and 
C line, down to waist, as Diagram L sliows. 



PLATE XIII. Diagram M. 



This Diagraui allows the different styles of 
Vests — the Single Breasted, to button way up ; 
the Double Breast, to button u]!; and the Double 
Breast, rolling collar. These tliree styles of Vests 
are drafted the same as Diagram L, the only differ- 
ence being in front. 

We first take the Single Breastetl, to button up. 
Having all the points as Diagram L shows, 
measure down on front, or C line, with Scale V, 
36, (for 36 Breast,) to Z, and draw a line from \'i 
to Z, for depth of neck in front: also, draw a line 
from B to O and C line, in front, which gives the 
length of neck. Allow \ of an inch outside of this 
line to lap over, and finish the front as the Dia- 
gram shows, making the line from B down the 
point for the length of Collar. 

The ne.xt is the Double Breast Vest, to button 
iip. This is also the same as Single Breast. 
Measure down from top line to Z, Scale V, Breast 
measure. Draw a line from D to Z, for depth o'^ 



neck; also, from B to O and C, and shape the 
front by this crossing of lines — and also neck gore- 
Then draft the lapel:— make the same 2| inches 
wide at top, 2f at O line, and 2 inches at the bot- 
tom, and shape the same as Diagram M shows. 

The third style is the Double Breast, rolling 
collar. This Vest is drafted in the same manner 
as the Single Breast, rolling collar, Diagram L. 
The only difference is this: for a Double Breast 
rolling collar Vest we only measure ont fror** E, 
on H line, the actual waist measure, and not allow 
the \ inch extra in front to lap over. 

Bring tape with the back waist measure 74- 
inches on * at E line, and measure out in front 
1.5| inches. Measure out from 15|- inches %\ 
inches, and at the bottom 2 inches, and draw a 
line up by 2 and 2| inches for the front, and also 
a line for the buttons to correspond with front line, 
and fini.sh the rest as Diagram M shows. 



20 



TEE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



The Same Diagrams for Cutting Shop Patterns. 



Square back and top line, as before explained. 
Mark out from A to B, 18 inches, for 3G breast; 
from B to C, 2|- inches ; from A to E, on Scale 
No. I, 36, and | inch for seams ; from E to F, 
Scale II, 36 ; for middle line, Scale III, 36 : and 
from A to D, Scale No. Ill, 36. Square all these 
lines down. Bring width of Back, or the distance 
from A to D, from top line down, and from this 
mark to H, 18 inches, or Breast measure. Square 
H line. Measure in from J to 1 1 Breast, or 4| 
inches. Bring \ of this | Breast, (or 1^- inches,) 
from J to K, for hollow of Back. Then measure 
out from K ^ the breast measure, (or 9 inches,) to 
* on H line, for width of Back at "Waist. Bring -J- 
tlie distance from J to K, {ov f inch,) from top 
line up on E, «r to point M. Then bring tape on 
H, and make a sweep from M to N. Square N 
line across. Bring Scale No. IV from top line 
down, and mark 36 for O line. Square line O 
across. Mark G in centre of E and C. Measure 
up from O, on E line, to Q, I of breast measure, 



(or 3 inches,) and draw a line from top of Back, at 
D line, to Q, for shoulder seam. Then measure 
from E line on O, for * 2, ^ of breast measure, or 
2y inches. Bring tape on this point, and make a 
sweep at toj) for front shoidder seam, as already 
explained in Diagram L. Bring ruler on E and 
top line to O on back, and make a mark on 
slioulder seam for width of Back, and shape the 
Armhole down in under the arm. Then shape 
side seam on back, from middle line down to x at 
H line, and from same point to x , 5^ inch inside 
of E line at H, and give spring below. Mark- 
down on E line, from H, -J, — and in front, from H 
line on C, for full length of Vest, f, — and draw a 
line for bottom from \- and \ breast measure. 
Then square line for bottom of Back, and finish 
this as Diagram, and cut it out. Bring the back 
on top, the same as in actual measurement. 
Having all this, then finish the different styles of 
Vests, as Diagrams L and M, or according to 
fashion. 



PLATE XIY. Diagrams P and Q. 
DRAFTING PANTALOONS. 



^ly system for Drafting Pantaloons has the 
most reliable points, which can not be found in 
any system published. It is easy to learn, and 
gives the points according to tlie sluipe of the body. 
It provides for the slim, tall man, as well as the so- 
called potbelly man; and will, in all cases, give 
the desired result, provided the measure is taken 
correct and the drafting carried out according to 
this rule. 

THE MEASUKEMENT. 

The measures for Pantaloons are taken in the 
following way : Find out the height of waist seam, 
or where tlie customer wants tlie top of waist, and 
make a mark. Bring tape on this mark. Measure 
down to knee, 24 inches — down to bottom, for full 
length, 4:2 inches. Bring tape up close in crotch 
— measure down to bottom for inside seam, 32 
inches. Then bring your tape up in front of waist 
on top of fly, where the waistband seam should 
come, and measure down to bottom of inside seam, 



for front length, 41|- inches. Then measuie for 
width according to style or fashion. Supposing 
the fashion is as follows: at bottom, 19 inches; 
around the knee, 17 inches; up around thigh, 25V 
inclies ; around hip, where the body is the largest, 
36 inclies — this measure should be taken very 
snug, as the system gives the extra allowance nec- 
essary. It is also the measure which gives the 
different points at top and bottom, the same as the 
breast measure in a Coaf. Then measure around 
the waist, 30 inches. This completes the measure 
standing, as follows : 

24 Waist to knee. 

42 Side length. 

32 Inside lengtli. 

4U Front lengtli. 

19 Bottom. 

17 Knee. 

25|^ Thigh. 

36 Hip measure. 

30 "Waist measure. 



Plate yJV 




TEE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



21 



THE DRAFT. 

HOW TO PRODUCE FRONT PART OF PANTS. 

Diagram P. 
Draw a line from A to C for centre or construc- 
tion line. We call it so because we mark in and 
out from this line for drafting a pair of Pants. 
This line is of great importance, because it gives 
the balance for the Pants ; therefore, we must lo- 
cate the same in the right place : and as soon as 
the same is brought out of place the Pants are 
spoiled. This line is of as much importance as the 
E line is in Coats in front of arm, and any system 
which is without this line for drafting Pantaloons 
is like a ship on the ocean without a compass — the 
captain will not know where he is, neitlier will the 
cutter without this line : he has no safe point to 
measure from or to go by. Lay on the square at 
the centre line, at A, and square across at top 
front and back. Measure down from A to B, 24 
inches ; also to C, 42 inches, or full length square 
across at bottom. Then take the hip measure, 
which is 36 inches. Divide it. Measure in from 
C to E, -J- of hip measure, or 3 inches ; also, 
measure out from C to F, -J-, or 3 inches — from F 
to G, 4ti, or I inch. This gives us all the points at 
the bottom for the front part. Then measure up 
from C to H, inside length of leg, 32 inches. 
Square across front and back. Measure out from 
H to I, \ of hip measure, or 6 inches ; also, meas- 
ure in from I to K, J- hip measure, or %\ inches, 
and make a mark. Then ^measure in at top, from 
A to D, -\ of hip measure, and draw lines down 
from D to E, from F to K, up to top line ; also, 
draw a line from I down to G. Mark out from 
front line, J inch to L ; also, f inch from 1 out ; 
and draw a line down for dress side. Mark up 
from K to N, | hip measure. Measure back from 
front line, at top, to M, ^ the waist measure, 
which is 7i inches in our measurement. Always 
let centre of this measure come on centre line, at 
A, and measure out ^ each way, and bring front 
line at top in or out. Then finish the front part 
as Diagram, giving rounding for hip ; also, finish 
the front by striking !N, and come out at I. Then 
draw a line in front, from L to I, or | inch mark, 
for dress side, and finish the front from I down, in- 
side of leg, same as Diagram P shows. Give 
rounding at bottom for spring, below bottom line, 
and cut the front out. 

DRAFTING BACK PART OF PANTS. 

Bring the front on the cloth for back part in a 
convenient position. Mark the centre line on top 
and bottom to under side, so it will not get out of 



place. Extend j'our line across from front part on 
under side. Mark in from M to O, f of waist 
measure, or 5 inches, and allow | inch for seam ; 
from K to *, on front part, -J- of hip measure, or 9 
inches ; and from this 9 inches to R, -Jj- of hip, or 
Iv inches. Here let me say if you find front part 
less than I of hip measure make up the diflerence 
from this point to E ; that is, bring the JW so much 
more in to give the full width. Measure out from 
I, to S, -Jg- of hip measure, or H inches; also, mark 
out from O to P, § of waist measure. Draw a 
line for seat seam, by bringing ruler on point P 
and N up. Bring \ of waist measure, from P up 
to Q, and draw a line from Q to O, for length of 
back, and shape it on top, as Diagram shows. 
Give spring at back seam, from P to Q. Measure 
in from E to T, \ of hip measure ; also, from F to 
U, -J. Then apply measure around the bottom, 
which is 19 inches. Measure the width of front 
part, from G to E, Gf inches. Bring this on U, 
and measure to T, and then add or take oft', as the 
case may be, according to the width of bottom ; 
but be careful to add or take off" on both sides 
alike, to make it equal. Measure out from front 
line to W, yV of hip measure. Then apply your 
measure around the knee, and allow 1 inch for 
making up, which will give us point V. Make a 
mark in centre, between E and T, — also G and U, 
— for a guide to shape the under side by, from 
knee down, — and finisli the whole as Diagram P, 
or according to fiishion. Draw a line about 3 
inches above the knee, and also below tlie knee 
across, and notch these lines so when the Pants 
are joined together these notches will meet each 
otlier, to avoid drawing the Pants out of balance. 

Too mucli care cannot be taken on this part to 
have the same marked and joined togetlicr, as it 
should be. Every \ incli so brought out of the 
way will have a bad effect iu tlie liaiig of the 
Pants. 

We will finish our ttij) part now at waist. 
Measure front part at waist, 7|- inches. Bring tliis 
on Q, or top of waist, at back. Mark in from this 
point 15 inches. Allow 1 inch for making up, 
and whatever the balance of cloth is between this 
16 incli and O take it out on back, by cutting out 
a fish from D down, so the point will run back- 
wards, more in the middle of back part, from 3 to 
7 inches long, according to the width of tlie piece 
to be taken out. 

In regard to making up a pair of Pants, ;i great 
deal of pains must be taken by the tailor to have 
them joined together in the right way, and also 
press them as the different parts may ncoil. After 



22 



THE CU TIE US' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



the scatns arc i>resbed out the leg of tlie pants 
shoukl be folded together so that centre, line forms 
the crease in front; and in tlii^ way it shonld be 
pressed in on back of knee and up to tliigh, so it 
takes away the extra cloth in liack, and forms the 
front of knee: and l)clow tlie knee it shonld be 
stretched in back, and shrunk in in front, so it 
forms the calf of leg : and down at bottom, all the 
spring, wjiatcvcr amount there is, should Ijc 
brought in front : and by doing so you will have 
tlie whole shape of leg — and bringing all the extra 
clutli ill the different places where it is needed. 

Diag;ram Q. 
HOW TO PRODUCE A PAIR OF PANTS FOR A COR- 
PULENT MAN. 

Tiiis i)iagrani will show you the wiiole working 
of my system of drafting a pair of Pants for this 
class of men, and any cutter of practice will see it 
is a correct plan. It gives the different points for 
itself, and if tlie cutter is careful in taking the 
measure correct he will produce a good-fitting pair 
of Pants. The greatest difficulty in the most of 
systems for drafting Pants for a corpulent man is 
to get the exact amount of clotli from front line 
out, so it will give tiie extra cl.-th in front fur the 
belly, whicli is to be covered, witiioiit interfering 
beldw. ;it N, down to fork. For instance, a man 
4S-incli waift and 44 liiii, his belly stand? out at 
tdp, and runs, after yon get above N, pretty well 
in. Supposing, now, you would bring the fly front 
on front line, at top, and give a little rounding be- 
low, will this give the shape for this man which he 
requires '. No, not by any means. The front of 
fly siiould be from 1 to ti inches outside from front 
line at waist : therefitre tliis amount of cloth must 
be allowed outside of tliis line, for covering tlie 
belly, Ml its, to give room and comfort to the 
wearer: and as soon as yon make tlie front line 
your ]«oint tor front of fly. at above stated, so soon 
you will draw tiie Pants out below at N, and 
bring a t^urpiiis amount of cloth at tliis point in 
front, which is needed on side and back, and spoils 
the looks and hang of the Pants. It is, therefore, 
necessary to ascertain the real amomit of cloth we 
need in front, at L, to give the wearer ease and 
comfort. This system provides for this, by meas- 
uring out from A to L, \ waist measure, which 
gives the exact quantity of cloth that is needed in 
front. 

Tiie next is to get the correct height at top in 
front. The measure we take for the length of 
Pants on the side gives ns the length of Pants at 
this point ; but in front, for this class of men, this 
measure is not sufficient. Supposing the cutter 



will make it the same length in front as on side 
seam, it would be entirely too short in front at top 
of waist. We must have a measure to give us the 
length in front, as well as on the side ; and this is 
the measure froni top of waist at front down to the 
liottom of the inside seam, as already ex[)lained. 

The measure for this Diagr. is as follows : 

^5 From Waist to Knee. 

43 Full length. 
lUi Inside length. 
444 Front length. 
194 Bottom. 

23 Knee. 

44 Hip measure. 
46 Waist measure. 



THK DKAm'. 



In regard to drafting, this is the same as in Dia- 
gram P, with few exceptions. I will, therefore, 
explain the whole, to give a good understanding. 
Draw a line down, for construction or centre line. 
Mcasuie down, from A to B, 25 inches; to C, 43 
inches. Square lines across by centre line, top 
and bottom. Measure from C to E, i of hip meas- 
ure, or 3| inches ; also, from C to F, J of hip 
measure ; from F to G, jtf, or I irich. Measure up 
from C to U, for inside seam, 31|- inches. Square 
this line also by centre line. Measure in from A 
to D, 1 of hip measure, or 1^ inches ; from H, or 
centre line, to I, \ of hip measure ; from I to K, i 
of hip mciisure, or 2| inches; and draw lines down, 
as before stated in Diagram P. Tiien measure for 
the waist at top. The waist measure in this draft 
is 46 inches, i of this is 23 inches, and makes 
one side of waistband. Take \ of this measure, oi" 
II I inches, for the front part, and from this take ^, 
or b\ inches, and bring it on centre line at A. 
Mark it out on front, and also to M. This gives 
the i of waist; — and wdierever this mark at front 
of waist comes is the point for the front line of fly. 
Mark out |- inch from front line of fly, and draw a 
line down for dress side. Mark out also \ inch 
from I at fork. Measure up from K to N, J- of 
hip measure, or 3| inches. Then shape the front 
from the \ waist measure down to N, and coming 
out at I ; also, draw a corresponding line \ inch 
outside down, for dress side. Then draw a line 
down i inch inside, from I to centre of F and tr, 
and shape fork by the same. 

This, as you will see, is the difference betwecu a 
slim and a corpulent man's pants. Diagram P, 
the line is drawn by F, or .}^ — Diagram Q, only \ 
the amount, or ji„. Bring tape measure on F and 
jjottora line. Let it run up to top and front line, 



THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 



23 



as our front measure in this draft calls for, which 
is 44i inches. Make a mark, and draw a line 
from M to L, by this top mark, and cut tlie front 
part out. 

DRAFTING BACK PART. 

Eriui^ the front on clutli. Murk U)\) and bottom 
on centre line, to keep it in place. Extend the 
lines across from front. Measure in from A to O 
I the waist measure ; add 1 inch for seams, making 
in all 12? inches. Then measure out from A 1 
inch, or i the difference between waist and hip 
measure, to P, and draw a line by P and N for 
back scam. Measure out from I to S, -^.y of hip 
measure. Tlien measure in from K to *, at side 



seam of front, ^ the hip measure, — 11 inclies — and 
from * to K ^'g- of hip, or 1 J inches. Bring \ waist 
measure, or 5| inches, from P to Q, and draw a 
line for top .1- inch below O, to Q. Give spring at 
back point Q, and shape the same as Diagram Q. 
Mark out from K and F line, on front, to W, Jt of 
hip measure, IJ inches; also, from F to IT, J;, and 
from E to T, J of hip measure, and tlien apply the 
measure for the bottom, and make the same to cor- 
respond with the measure as explained in Diagram 
P. Also, measure for width at Knee, and finish 
the under side as Diagram Q shows. Draw lines 
across, above and below Knee, and notch it, so the 
legs will not be twisted in joining them together, 

cut it out — AXI> OUR WORK IS RNDKD. 



